Following Errol’s heavy losses at the Happy Valley race track, he decided to leave the British colony of Hong Kong for the Portugese colony of Macao in seek of better luck, especially at fan-tan, a Chinese game of chance he learned in New Guinea. He and Herr Erben hopped “the Fusham a small packet” to Macao, a 35-mile trip, an approximately 3 or 4 hour trip west across the Pearl River Delta. Macau was a largely undeveloped refuge for fishermen, wayfarers and exiles until the Portuguese settled there in the mid 16th century. In the 1930s, when Errol visited, it was had an extremely poor population, and reputation. As Errol states in MWWW, it was known as “the stinkpot of the orient”. No longer, though: Now it is one of the wealthiest regions in the world.
Here is a passenger ferry schedule from Hong Kong to Macao typical of when Errol took the trip:
Here’s junk-filled Macoa Harbor circa the time of Errol’s visit:
Here’s a 1930’s bird’s-eye view of Macoa:
Much of Macau’s prosperity is owed to gambling, which was legalized by the Portuguese in 1847. As many as 200 gambling dens when Errol visited, offering traditional Chinese favorites, including most notably fan tan.
In the years since Errol’s time there, “Macao has transformed from a sleepy Portuguese colony of amateur gambling dens and down-at-the-heel hotels to the Las Vegas of the East.”
Indeed, by many measures (at least prior to the Covid-19 pandemic), Macao is the most significant gambling mecca in now the world, bigger than Vegas.
— Tim
